“ A spiritual anchor of Rattanakosin, Wat Somanas stands as a timeless guardian of peace, faith, and royal heritage. ”
While many famous temples in Bangkok are open to visitors every day, Wat Somanas Vihara is not one of them. Located peacefully by the Padung Krung Kasem Canal, right across from the Government House, this royal temple holds a quiet charm and a special rule, it is open to the public only on certain days.
The temple allows visitors inside its important buildings only on Buddhist holy days, which usually happen about four times a month. That means the temple is open to tourists for just around 48 days a year.
Because of this, visiting Wat Somanas Vihara feels different. It’s not just sightseeing, it’s a special moment. You need the right time, the right day, and maybe a little bit of patience to experience its peaceful beauty and rich history.
History
Queen Somanas Waddhanawathy was the daughter of Prince Lakhananukun. She was born in 1834. When she was only six months old, her father passed away. King Rama III, her grandfather, brought her to live in the Grand Palace. He was very fond of her and gave her the royal title “Phra Chao Lan Thoe” (meaning royal granddaughter). He also built a temple in her honor called Wat Ratchanadda. During the reign of King Rama IV, she became part of the royal court and was appointed as the first queen consort of the reign. Their royal wedding was held on January 2, 1852.
In August 1852, she became seriously ill while pregnant. She gave birth to a baby boy after only seven months of pregnancy. The baby prince was named Prince Somanas, after his mother, but sadly, he passed away just three hours after birth. After the loss of her son, Queen Somanas’s health continued to worsen. She passed away on October 10, 1852.
King Rama IV was deeply saddened by the deaths of both his queen and their baby son. After her funeral, he used part of her personal royal funds to build a new temple by the Padung Krung Kasem Canal, which was newly dug at that time. He personally laid the foundation stone on January 15, 1853, and named the temple Wat Somanas Vihara, in her memory. Later in his reign, King Rama IV ordered the construction of another temple nearby, named Wat Makut Kasattriyaram. This temple was built for himself and was located close to Queen Somanas’s temple.
Architecture of Wat Somanas Vihara
Inside the main vihara (hall) of Wat Somanas Vihara, the principal Buddha image sits on a large and beautiful throne. This statue is named Phra Sombuddha Somanas Waddhanawadinat Bophit. It shows the Buddha in the “Mara Vichai” posture (subduing Mara), a classic style in Thai art. The statue has no ushnisha (topknot) and features a natural-looking robe with gentle folds a unique style favored during the reign of King Rama IV.
Behind the statue, there is an inscription in ancient Khmer script that is a chant praising the Buddha.
In front of the main Buddha image, there are two bronze statues of the Buddha’s chief disciples: Phra Sariputta and Phra Moggallana. These figures were cast in the Grand Palace and later moved to this temple.
Inside the vihara, there are 12 large pillars, 6 on each side of the principal Buddha image. Each pillar is painted in different shades. The ones closest to the Buddha are painted in light colors, and the colors gradually darken as they move further away. The farthest pillars are painted in very dark tones. This design represents a Buddhist teaching, symbolizing the human mind, which contains both good and evil in different amounts.
However, color alone may not clearly express the meaning. So, small paintings were added to each pillar, within small frames. These paintings are known as Chalaphichat, or “The Six Types of People,” showing six groups of people with different levels of virtue or wrongdoing. Each painting matches the tone and position of its pillar.
And the last pillars on both sides, representing the most immoral group are painted with images of a Christian person and a Muslim person. The reason behind these images is unclear. Some believe it may reflect a negative view of non-Buddhists from the past, or perhaps suggest that people of other religions were considered outside the Buddhist moral categories.
Murals Inside of Wat Somanas Vihara
Inside the main vihara of Wat Somanas Vihara, mural paintings can be found on the walls between the windows. Interestingly, these murals do not depict traditional Buddhist stories but instead illustrate a famous Thai literary work called “Inao”.
Inao is a royal drama well-known in Thailand, especially the version written by King Rama II. The story is originally based on Javanese (Indonesian) legends, and many of the characters and places have names that sound foreign to Thai ears. The plot is rich, complex, and full of emotional drama with scenes of romance, war, and royal duty.
The artist also included scenes of daily life, people of different ethnicities, and the environment of that time. This place also shows that Thai people knew about kangaroos during the reign of King Rama IV.
Why was the story of Inao painted on the walls of the main hall at Wat Somanas?
There are several interpretations. Some suggest it may be due to King Rama IV’s special interest in the story, as certain parts resemble the life of Queen Somanas Waddhanawathy (according to an article analyzing King Rama IV’s ideas reflected in the mural ‘Inao’ at Wat Somanat by Jutharat Jitsopa). Others believe it might have been the Queen’s favorite literary work, or simply a reflection of the era’s trend of depicting non-religious stories in temples such as the tale of Sri Thanonchai at Wat Pathum Wanaram.
The mural depicting the story of Inao at Wat Somanas is considered remarkably complete, covering the entire narrative from beginning to end without missing any important scenes such as the battle with King Kahmankunin, Busba’s candle ritual, Inao burning the city, and the wind carrying Busba away, among others.
The Golden Stupa of Wat Somanas Vihara
At the back entrance of the main hall, you can see a round-shaped chedi (stupa) standing 55 meters tall, entirely covered with golden mosaic tiles. Inside, it houses relics of the Buddha, which were brought from India.
On the north and south sides of the stupa, there are pavilions enshrining bronze statues of two former abbots: Somdet Phra Wanarat (Thap Phutthasiri) and Somdet Phra Maha Wirawong (Yang Khemaphirato).
On the north and south sides of the main hall, there are pavilions enshrining bronze statues of two former abbots: Somdet Phra Wanarat (Thap Phutthasiri) and Somdet Phra Maha Wirawong (Yang Khemaphirato)
A gallery surrounds the stupa, lined with standing Buddha images. It serves as a place for walking meditation, sitting meditation, or circumambulation during important Buddhist holy days.
Location and Visiting Hours
- Wat Somanas Vihara
646 Krungkasem Road, Wat Somanat Subdistrict, Pom Prap Sattru Phai District, Bangkok
- The Main Hall
he main hall is open to visitors on regular Buddhist holy days, which include the 8th and 15th day of the lunar calendar, according to the Thai Buddhist calendar of the Dhammayutika sect.
The doors of the main hall open from 07:00 AM to 04:00 PM.
There are three prayer sessions: 09:00 – 10:30 AM, 12:00 – 12:30 PM, and 03:00 – 03:30 PM. These sessions involve chanting and listening to Dharma talks. Visitors are welcome to join by dressing modestly. Men and women sit separately with a partition between them. Chanting books are available on a shelf near the entrance. For any inquiries about the rituals, visitors can ask the nuns or others attending the ceremony.
- The Ubosot
The Ubosot is open every day, but only from 08:00 – 08:30 AM and 05:00 – 05:30 PM for monks to perform morning and evening rituals. Laypeople can also enter to chant, but should only enter after the bell has rung and should leave before the monks. If you wish to take photos inside, please contact the monk responsible (the one ringing the bell).
Members
1. Piriyapohn Luangpathomchai 6627648048
2. Teerach Chermchitpong 6627648303
3. Pichayapa Jiamjiroj 6627648220
